Friday 27 July. Chatsang Glacier

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At last, a good night’s sleep! Better still, we stay here tonight so no packing to do. Supposedly a rest day. Patchy sun. We decide to go up valley to the glacier, at the last minute we decide to take along crampons and ice axes. A slow trudge up the valley with guide Stenzin and pony man Sonam who says that the glacier has shrunk. At the foot of the glacier is a small, icy black lake - and stunning views of Kang Yatse. We climp a couple of hundred feet up the glacier, with ice axes and crampons it’s quite easy, there’s no snow but we can see water running under the ice. Great fun. I’d like to go to the top and walk along the ridge back to yesterday’s pass but it’s probably further than it appears and it’s deemed to be too late.

Soup and rice, a doze in the tents then marmot watching. Baby marmots poke their heads out of the their burrows just a few feet away, later the mouse rabbits do the same. A nomad passes by downstream with a herd of dzos, the young ones are running and playing. Overcast and cool, we put on several extra layers. Light frozen rain. Over dinner - of momos and chips - we discuss our revised plans and how we’re doing. Though we’re still slow uphill, we have no headaches and are starting to get acclimatised. Late to bed, 10.30, rain on the tent roof. 

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