Chhusang to Kagbeni

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Summary and Index

We’re coming to the end of our trek and walking over familiar ground but we spend another hour exploring the lovely village of Tangge and we call in at the tea house by the apple orchard. Unfortunately Imra isn’t here today, she’s gone to Jomsom to borrow money to start a new business, she wants to open a tea house in Tangge. There are two guest houses in Tangge, one offers a quick service restaurant, the other has cartons of three varieties of fruit juice in its window - but both look very closed. It’s a very picturesque village but almost deserted, Kancha talks a lot about how life has changed in Nepal in the last ten years with many people leaving the cvillages in search of better paid work and an easier life. It’s a world wide phenomenon and we talk at length about the world and politics. His view is that there are no reliable political parties to be had in Nepal.

It’s warmer at this lower altitude and we’re walking into a strong headwind, the views of Nilgiri and the time in Tangge are the highlights of the day and the colour and texture of the rocks provide interest as we walk. We’re back in Kagbeni and sit down in the cafe by the checkpost while Kancha registers the fact that we’ve arrived back and are no longer in Upper Mustang. The cafe has apple pie but no coffee! There’s a power cut. The checkpost has interesting records of visitors to Upper Mustang, in 2012 there were visitors from 50 countries. We check back into the New Annapurna Hotel before going to the Red House, a famous old guest house wher our friend Tracy stayed a couple of years ago. Tenzin shows us the most amazing private shrine room with a large statue of the Buddha. We’ve brought some photos of Tracy which we show to the two sisters who live here, they serve us tea in a delightful old glazed balcony lined with old bookcases.

We seemed to have decided to drive to Jomsom and take an afternoon walk to a village called Marpa. Kancha has a huge argument with the drivers at the taxi rank. They seem to be very unpleasant guys and he’s upset they’ve broken the agreements he’d made earlier. At the river crossing we change to another taxi but the driver stops short of Jomson and we have a long walk into town helping the porters with the gear.


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