The fields of pink buckwheat are replaced by peas, we walk through them in patchy sun towards the end of the valley. Two riderless horses career down the path. The army checkpoint is within a mile of Chitkul and there’s no way past. We’re only 10 miles from China and it’s a sensitive area.



Spiti and Kinnaur via the Bhabha La - Baspa Valley, Chitkul