Sat 2 August   Leh
We have breakfast on a rooftop in Changspa, the busy hangout street for young travellers. We bump into Ray and Colette who have arrived back in Leh and we hope to meet them later, though in fact we don’t. Stanzin arrives at Wangchuk’s offices and we take a taxi down to his lodgings in lower Changspa to meet his wife, children and brother’s wife. Tea and biscuits, sitting on cushions, singing Stanzin’s praises. It’s a pleasant walk back up to Changspa through the walled lanes of lower Leh. Lemon soda then we split up for shopping. I buy a large pair of brass Tibetan cymbals to recreate the sound of Tibet when we’re back home in Sheffield. We add some white khatas and an appliqued door pennant that I think I saw a year ago, old and faded from hanging over the shop doorway, some beaded jewellery for friends back home and a nice old crystal mala for Vadanya that I spotted when we first arrived. 
At 6 o’clock we sit in a hotel lobby with Stanzin to watch the dvd that Graham compiled of last year’s trek and posted to Wangchuk - who’s watched it many times but not tonight. To relive this with Stanzin is a fine end to the trek. He’s been a great guide and we’re delighted that Wangchuk has listened our compliments and assigned another trek to him. He sets off tomorrow for Nubra. Beers and food at the Ibex.

Sun 3 August
It’s Sunday and we’re pleasantly drowsy. The lanes up to Sankar are quiet and perfect for a slow, meandering walk. This is a lovely part of Leh with scattered houses standing among fields and large gardens divided by streams and stone walls. Familiarity makes places smaller and we arrive at the gompa sooner than expected. More rooms are open than before and we see a large image of Tsongkapa. Wooden steps lead to the roof and good views over Leh. We’ve been here several times but today’s visit has been the most enchanting, perhaps because of our relaxed and serene frame of mind.
We pack our bags and I top up my Airtel phone card - but only after accidentally topping up someone else’s number. A pleasant Rs300 surprise for them. Graham went off to the Penguin cafe with a French woman he talked with two weeks ago at the gompa. We join them later for a drink of ginger, mint and lemon. I phone Jagdish in Delhi who is out of town but promises that my furniture will be ready to ship in two days time. It’s already a year late and I’m unconvinced, as it turns out, quite rightly. Two months I’m still waiting. I also phone Ramesh who organised our trek in Spiti two years ago. He’s in Delhi and we arrange to meet tomorrow. 

Zanskar - Leh, Sankar