Tibet 2014 - Tholing to Tithapuri

Tholing 12 September.

I’m sorry to leave this far west outpost of Tibet. We’ve been everywhere our permits allowed, but there is more and hopefully we’ll come again, better prepared. The immediate hills surrounding Tholing are littered with many large ruins and the tickets we bought for Tholing and Tsaparang are also valid for the Manang temple, the ruins of Xiangzi Castle and the Quilong Silver City. Signposts show the routes but quite what and where they are remains a little uncertain and without a permit they certainly remain out of bounds.

We drive out again through the eroded canyons and over the red hills, even more intense in the morning light, before dropping down to the plains and the road back east. A friendly roadside store at Moincer has nicely packaged baskets of tea and a black wool, replacement polo hat for Bev. A brief lunch under a poster of the Gang of Four and a wild life film on the tv and by 1.30 we’ve arrived at Tithapuri. An instantly attractive pilgrimage site with black wool tents appliqued with the 8 auspicious Buddhist signs. We say yes and occupy a spacious tent with carpeted bench beds and low painted tables. The camp site manager wanders over, very friendly and with an acquisitive interest in Guy’s watch. He’s just finished gutting a sheep and his finger nails are still bloody.



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