Tibet 2014 - Kailash: Pass Camp to River Camp

Pass Camp 18 September.

A slow easy walk down the valley after a frozen start. We pass three elderly monks, one wearing traditional felt boots. We enter Zutrulphuk  monastery, the prayer hall is newly built over a cave which is supposed to have given shelter to Milarepa and is full of banknotes. Yesterday’s energy has dissipated until we arrive, quite tired, at a grassy camp down by the river. A delightful warm sleepy afternoon. Guy sprawls out on a blue tarpaulin and takes in the sun while I look for shade. Our guide sets of to Darchen to make arrangements for tomorrow.

I join Bev who’s preparing a piece of landscape art. The letters of ‘This Land’ are created by powdering local grit and a stencil as a mould. A testimony to the landscape, a couple of words you can finish in any way you want. Impermanent, they’ll be soon gone by the action of wind, rain and footprints of animals and people, maybe before anyone has seen them.  What would you make of them if you didn’t know the letters. She’s made the same work in Ladakh on a hill overlooking the village of Kanji and on the pass just south of Yulchung.

A blissful afternoon ends with a beautiful sunset in this precious Tibetan sky.


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